If a little bit of solar this week has received you eager for the seaside, then Bonnie Gull may need opened up simply in time to save lots of you the worth of a return to Brighton.
Shiny and new on restaurant-packed Exmouth Market, it follows within the footsteps of the unique Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack in Fitzrovia and rocks an analogous type of tongue-in-cheek seashore home stylish because of pale blue panelled partitions, checked tablecloths and the odd gaudy wall hanging.
The menu is equally playful, however takes its seafood critically all the identical, mixing up a uncooked bar with merely cooked fish dishes and assorted seafood classics corresponding to moules mariniere, grilled lobster and fish & chips.
Oysters are a suitably saline approach to begin, with a selection of 4 totally different varieties (costing from £P.70 every) permitting us to match and distinction the tastes of every breed. Though strikingly totally different, all are superlative in flavour suggesting some fairly cautious sourcing: a superb job given the restaurant’s specialism.
We additionally pattern Dorset crab served with avocado on beef-dripping toast, and may affirm that this richly emolliated surf ‘n’ turf is as genius a mixture because it sounds. A thick smothering of deep-flavoured brown crab meat seeps into the earthy, dripping-laced sourdough whereas fluffy strands of chicken and tender avocado give some mild aid on prime. It’s not for the faint hearted, however allow them to order it and we’ll have theirs.
Delicate lemon sole makes for a much more elegant principal and the cooking is spot-on. Moist, tender flesh is enriched by a light-weight parsley butter and contrasted by some child gem lettuce that’s been gently wilted till simply barely bitter. But intelligent cooking and fairly flavours shortly give approach to primal instincts as crab as soon as once more steals the present.
This time it comes served virtually entire, with its physique halved however legs intact, together with a set of crackers and a hammer by means of equipment. We’re additionally given a cleverly common bib to assist defend our garments from shell fragments and overexcited meaty explosions, although we couldn’t assist however really feel that the somewhat critical wanting go well with-clad desk subsequent to us should have been given some as nicely. We bashed, slurped, cracked, laughed and clawed at claws as we made our method via the crab’s plentiful meat, and got here to the consensus that that is fantastic. At a seafood café, making a little bit of noise and plenty of mess is completely par for the course. Isn’t it?
After a mop of the desk, our brows and most of our extremities, it’s time for pudding. A do-it-yourself millionaire’s shortbread comes with a lot anticipation however proves to be the one actual disappointment of the meal. Milk chocolate is changed with darkish, its skimpy on caramel and, for all we will inform, the bottom isn’t shortbread in any respect. While it’s a screaming reminder to the pastry cooks of London that deconstructed desserts or classics with a twist are not often nearly as good because the constructed classics themselves, our low is shortly alleviated by the presence of one other dessert: a correct Mr Whippy ice-cream cone, full with a flake. Contented is the phrase.
A enjoyable getaway of a restaurant, we’d advocate a visit to Bonnie Gull for anybody with a passion for fish. Mains value between £15 and £20 (the entire crab is £18), whereas home wines begin at £18, which can be pricier than on the coast, however it’s not dangerous for a spot that brings the ocean to EC1. It additionally does a line in meals-to-go for the lunchtime workplace crowd.
Bonnie Gull Seafood Café is at fifty five-fifty seven Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL
Disclaimer: We assessment eleven:30 am – Source: londonist.com